How To Magnet
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How To Magnet was created by MEMO1DOMINION
Thanks to great input from the kickstarter backers from the comments section.
Michael Wong 1 day ago
Magnets Pt 1.
On the question of magnets, I've been using them for nearly ten years with my Flames of War tanks and other 15mm models. And the biggest piece of advice I'd give is don't bother. The work involved isn't over difficult, but it's often fiddly. Even without having models on hand (cheers Palladium, you FUCKS) a resin tank turret is more forgiving on mistakes than a plastic 1/300 Regult artillery pod.
But here's my advice for magnet noobs that want to give it a go. You need to find a vendor of rare earth magnets, they are also known as neodymium magnets. These are available in a very wide variety of sizes and shapes, but most importantly different strengths. The strength of the magnet is a big factor - a lot of the magnets that are packaged for sale at games shops are actually very strong. This strength is needed for larger models from GW and PP (Dreadnaughts, Warjacks etc) but these magnets are going to be way too strong for plastic parts. High strength magnets can be quite firm to pull apart, the issue is you'll be pulling on thin plastic parts and there's a high chance you'll rip apart your magnetised minis just trying to change parts.
Take a look at this product page, you'll see that they list their magnets with different "pull strength:
magnet.com.au/rare-earth-magnet/rare-ear...product/listing.html
The magnet strength is often presented as "NXX" where XX is a measure of the strength. A chart can be found here:
www.kjmagnetics.com/specs.asp
So big tip #1 check the magnet's pull strength before making a purchase, or you may end up with magnets that will do more harm than good. Though the shape isn't too good, if you've got Battlefront magnets the pull strength should be fine, albeit on the strong side. But the issue with BF magnets are the shape.
Michael Wong 1 day ago
Magnets Pt 1.
On the question of magnets, I've been using them for nearly ten years with my Flames of War tanks and other 15mm models. And the biggest piece of advice I'd give is don't bother. The work involved isn't over difficult, but it's often fiddly. Even without having models on hand (cheers Palladium, you FUCKS) a resin tank turret is more forgiving on mistakes than a plastic 1/300 Regult artillery pod.
But here's my advice for magnet noobs that want to give it a go. You need to find a vendor of rare earth magnets, they are also known as neodymium magnets. These are available in a very wide variety of sizes and shapes, but most importantly different strengths. The strength of the magnet is a big factor - a lot of the magnets that are packaged for sale at games shops are actually very strong. This strength is needed for larger models from GW and PP (Dreadnaughts, Warjacks etc) but these magnets are going to be way too strong for plastic parts. High strength magnets can be quite firm to pull apart, the issue is you'll be pulling on thin plastic parts and there's a high chance you'll rip apart your magnetised minis just trying to change parts.
Take a look at this product page, you'll see that they list their magnets with different "pull strength:
magnet.com.au/rare-earth-magnet/rare-ear...product/listing.html
The magnet strength is often presented as "NXX" where XX is a measure of the strength. A chart can be found here:
www.kjmagnetics.com/specs.asp
So big tip #1 check the magnet's pull strength before making a purchase, or you may end up with magnets that will do more harm than good. Though the shape isn't too good, if you've got Battlefront magnets the pull strength should be fine, albeit on the strong side. But the issue with BF magnets are the shape.
"IF IT DOESN'T EXIST...BUILD IT"
9 years 11 months ago
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Matt Trussell about 20 hours ago
I'll also add a bit towards magnets. They're worth the effort if you can't afford to double up on the actual miniatures. For example, Destroid alternates are a good place to magnetize, since you're unlikely to have as many of those as Veritechs. Veritech missiles may not be worth it if you have enough to just assemble a couple with each load out.
Michael Wong has some good advice. I'll also throw a couple links at you guys.
For magnets, something like these are great
www.amazon.com/MAGCREDIBLE%C2%AE-Magnets...4800001X/ref=sr_1_6…
Those are strong, and probably the smallest you're going to find with enough strength to hold heavier stuff on during play (if someone has better links, please hook me up!)
To insert them, you'll want to get a nice drill. Some people have good success with a nice Dremel or other hand power drill, but I've found I'm too clumsy. Especially with these RRT models, which have some weird tiny pieces. I would invest in a good Pin Vice Hand Drill.
www.amazon.com/Mini-Micro-Drill-Vise-Chu...01RJE3X8/ref=sr_1_1…
That one is high quality and has a lot of bits. But if you're not looking to drop that much on a tool, you can find a simple one for under 10 bucks. Using a hand drill only takes slightly longer, and you don't have to worry about slipping and destroying a figure
Final advice: Paint both ends of your magnets red/blue. That way when you go back to put the corresponding piece into the arm or whatever, you don't have to remember which polarity is sticking out of the torso.
I'll also add a bit towards magnets. They're worth the effort if you can't afford to double up on the actual miniatures. For example, Destroid alternates are a good place to magnetize, since you're unlikely to have as many of those as Veritechs. Veritech missiles may not be worth it if you have enough to just assemble a couple with each load out.
Michael Wong has some good advice. I'll also throw a couple links at you guys.
For magnets, something like these are great
www.amazon.com/MAGCREDIBLE%C2%AE-Magnets...4800001X/ref=sr_1_6…
Those are strong, and probably the smallest you're going to find with enough strength to hold heavier stuff on during play (if someone has better links, please hook me up!)
To insert them, you'll want to get a nice drill. Some people have good success with a nice Dremel or other hand power drill, but I've found I'm too clumsy. Especially with these RRT models, which have some weird tiny pieces. I would invest in a good Pin Vice Hand Drill.
www.amazon.com/Mini-Micro-Drill-Vise-Chu...01RJE3X8/ref=sr_1_1…
That one is high quality and has a lot of bits. But if you're not looking to drop that much on a tool, you can find a simple one for under 10 bucks. Using a hand drill only takes slightly longer, and you don't have to worry about slipping and destroying a figure
Final advice: Paint both ends of your magnets red/blue. That way when you go back to put the corresponding piece into the arm or whatever, you don't have to remember which polarity is sticking out of the torso.
"IF IT DOESN'T EXIST...BUILD IT"
9 years 11 months ago
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Steve Blanton about 17 hours ago
www.amazingmagnets.com/
I like these guys as they have very tiny magnets at the best prices i've found yet. Planning on using the 1/16 X 1/32 for the arms/ arty pods and the 1/8 X 1/32 for the main bodies.
www.amazingmagnets.com/
I like these guys as they have very tiny magnets at the best prices i've found yet. Planning on using the 1/16 X 1/32 for the arms/ arty pods and the 1/8 X 1/32 for the main bodies.
"IF IT DOESN'T EXIST...BUILD IT"
9 years 11 months ago
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more from ks comments
Michael Wong 1 day ago
Magnets pt 2
Ok, so I last spoke about how it's important to choose a rare earth magnet with a pull strength that won't damage your models when you go to switch parts, now I'll discuss some of the practical considerations on actually attaching magnets onto your models.
Previously someone mentioned getting a hand drill/pin vise. I completely agree, they are invaluable tools that you need to use for a whole bunch of things...just not attaching rare earth magnets. Thing is that the hobby pin vises you buy come with a variety of hobby drill bits, nearly all of which are less than 1mm in width. So unless you have a magnet that's less than 1mm in width you're going to find this pretty useless for magnets out of the box. You can get wider width drill bits, but the important thing with drill is it's for creating the sink hole for you to put the magnet into. If it's a 2mm magnet, you'll need a 2mm drill bit etc. Dremel's are far better at this job, and come with some really useful bits for magnets. Be very careful when using a dremel (or similar) and make sure you have the RPM (revolutions per minute, how fast it goes) set to the lowest setting if you decide to get one for use on these models. A dremel will very, very quickly shred your plastic models into shit.
I mentioned that I've pretty much gone off the idea of using rare earth magnets on my models, even though I still haven't got any in my hands (fuck you PB, fuck you). Looking at pics of the sprues online, and pics from those great guys and gals who have posted them, I can't easily see where I'd drill a sink hole for a magnet that won't fuck the model beyond all recognition in any model except the Phalanx, and the arty pods on the Regult. The smallest magnet I can find is a 2.5mm wide x 2mm high one, and you'll need to find a join where you can create a 2.5 x 2mm hole. Not sure yet if there's such a location that would be useful to place a magnet, but very happy to be wrong. If there is such a location, then consider this - what sort of glue will you need to ensure the magnet stays put? And remember this glue needs to be strong enough to resist a .3kg pull strength. I know first hand from WW2 models there isn't many products out there that can give that strength with the tiny amount you'll have to use to make sure you're not making a mess of the join (small hole, small location, make sure you have enough space to allow the glue to settle around the magnet and bond it to the plastic surface...you get the picture).
So yeah, I hope once I get the actual models I'll change my mind, but right now I'm pretty sure for me, magnets are a non starter. I'm so cool for someone to come along and say "Nope, ignore him, here's how you can do it".
Michael Wong 1 day ago
Magnets pt 2
Ok, so I last spoke about how it's important to choose a rare earth magnet with a pull strength that won't damage your models when you go to switch parts, now I'll discuss some of the practical considerations on actually attaching magnets onto your models.
Previously someone mentioned getting a hand drill/pin vise. I completely agree, they are invaluable tools that you need to use for a whole bunch of things...just not attaching rare earth magnets. Thing is that the hobby pin vises you buy come with a variety of hobby drill bits, nearly all of which are less than 1mm in width. So unless you have a magnet that's less than 1mm in width you're going to find this pretty useless for magnets out of the box. You can get wider width drill bits, but the important thing with drill is it's for creating the sink hole for you to put the magnet into. If it's a 2mm magnet, you'll need a 2mm drill bit etc. Dremel's are far better at this job, and come with some really useful bits for magnets. Be very careful when using a dremel (or similar) and make sure you have the RPM (revolutions per minute, how fast it goes) set to the lowest setting if you decide to get one for use on these models. A dremel will very, very quickly shred your plastic models into shit.
I mentioned that I've pretty much gone off the idea of using rare earth magnets on my models, even though I still haven't got any in my hands (fuck you PB, fuck you). Looking at pics of the sprues online, and pics from those great guys and gals who have posted them, I can't easily see where I'd drill a sink hole for a magnet that won't fuck the model beyond all recognition in any model except the Phalanx, and the arty pods on the Regult. The smallest magnet I can find is a 2.5mm wide x 2mm high one, and you'll need to find a join where you can create a 2.5 x 2mm hole. Not sure yet if there's such a location that would be useful to place a magnet, but very happy to be wrong. If there is such a location, then consider this - what sort of glue will you need to ensure the magnet stays put? And remember this glue needs to be strong enough to resist a .3kg pull strength. I know first hand from WW2 models there isn't many products out there that can give that strength with the tiny amount you'll have to use to make sure you're not making a mess of the join (small hole, small location, make sure you have enough space to allow the glue to settle around the magnet and bond it to the plastic surface...you get the picture).
So yeah, I hope once I get the actual models I'll change my mind, but right now I'm pretty sure for me, magnets are a non starter. I'm so cool for someone to come along and say "Nope, ignore him, here's how you can do it".
"IF IT DOESN'T EXIST...BUILD IT"
9 years 11 months ago
#21139
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Michael Wong 1 day ago
Here's a link to small magnets. The pull strength is far lower than the ones I use for resin, I suspect that it won't be strong enough to keep two pieces attached under gaming conditions.
magnet.com.au/rare-earth-magnet/rare-ear...isc-2-5mm-x-2mm.html
Steve Blanton 1 day ago
A link for the 2 sizes i'm planning on using. A bit smaller. Just looking at phalanx and arty, like you said.
www.amazingmagnets.com/show-metric-d032-063.aspx
www.amazingmagnets.com/show-metric-d032a.aspx
Battle Damage 1 day ago
Here's a link to some 2mm magnets:
thecombatcompany.com/rare-earth-magnets/...ack-2-00mm-x-100pcs/
They are indeed tiny. I tried them on an artillery regault on both the light and heavy artillery launchers. I think they'd be okay with holding up the heavy arty pods, but the light pods wouldn't go too well in gaming conditions. I haven't got any UEDF models to trial them on (I bought these off mini market whilst I wait for my pledge. I'm an Australian backer, I've already reminded myself the PB doesn't give a fuck) but I imagine that they'd be fine for valk arms and heads.
Also, Combat Company are good dudes and I thoroughly recommend them for all of your antipodean wargame shopping needs.
Mark Johnson 1 day ago
Back 2 BaseIX also has a range of magnets www.back2base-ix.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=74
Here's a link to small magnets. The pull strength is far lower than the ones I use for resin, I suspect that it won't be strong enough to keep two pieces attached under gaming conditions.
magnet.com.au/rare-earth-magnet/rare-ear...isc-2-5mm-x-2mm.html
Steve Blanton 1 day ago
A link for the 2 sizes i'm planning on using. A bit smaller. Just looking at phalanx and arty, like you said.
www.amazingmagnets.com/show-metric-d032-063.aspx
www.amazingmagnets.com/show-metric-d032a.aspx
Battle Damage 1 day ago
Here's a link to some 2mm magnets:
thecombatcompany.com/rare-earth-magnets/...ack-2-00mm-x-100pcs/
They are indeed tiny. I tried them on an artillery regault on both the light and heavy artillery launchers. I think they'd be okay with holding up the heavy arty pods, but the light pods wouldn't go too well in gaming conditions. I haven't got any UEDF models to trial them on (I bought these off mini market whilst I wait for my pledge. I'm an Australian backer, I've already reminded myself the PB doesn't give a fuck) but I imagine that they'd be fine for valk arms and heads.
Also, Combat Company are good dudes and I thoroughly recommend them for all of your antipodean wargame shopping needs.
Mark Johnson 1 day ago
Back 2 BaseIX also has a range of magnets www.back2base-ix.com/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=74
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Michael Wong 1 day ago
Valk heads...that's one of the model parts I suspect won't work. I'm trying to work out if the torso will take a magnet, but you will need to secure it with glue on the sides and base of the magnet. From what I've seen the valk torso is made of two halves, so not sure if it will work.
Mark Johnson 1 day ago
I've been using large magnets to magnetise my Mechadrome mech arms, and I've got a bunch of Warmachine gear magnetised too. Also started magnetising weapons on some Wild West Exodus light vehicles.
Mike Norris 1 day ago
I was reading on BGG that someone said the tab on the back of the bases is used to keep track of who is who on the battlefield. Anyone have any idea how this works?
I was just thinking about getting out my x-wing #s and laying those on the bases.
Valk heads...that's one of the model parts I suspect won't work. I'm trying to work out if the torso will take a magnet, but you will need to secure it with glue on the sides and base of the magnet. From what I've seen the valk torso is made of two halves, so not sure if it will work.
Mark Johnson 1 day ago
I've been using large magnets to magnetise my Mechadrome mech arms, and I've got a bunch of Warmachine gear magnetised too. Also started magnetising weapons on some Wild West Exodus light vehicles.
Mike Norris 1 day ago
I was reading on BGG that someone said the tab on the back of the bases is used to keep track of who is who on the battlefield. Anyone have any idea how this works?
I was just thinking about getting out my x-wing #s and laying those on the bases.
"IF IT DOESN'T EXIST...BUILD IT"
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