by the fans for the fans

MEMO

Glad to be of some help. I hope you are able to use the information to your advantage.

One other little note I forgot to add in there is....

When you are spraying your color coats... don't lay them down too thick... you don't have to cover the whole thing all at once... If you lay it on too thick you might lose some of the delicate details that are found on kits like those from Hasegawa. Take your time and be patient.

Have a great weekend everyone!

Mark

Ok so here's a couple of tip for you guys.

Photo etched parts are a great way to add detail and realism to your kits. You'll find a variety of detail sets from seat belts for cars to cockpit details for planes.

Now Macross kits are no exception to this. If you happen upon Hasegawa's 1:72 VF-1D kit then you'll be surprised to find that it comes with a Photo etched detail set inside.

Now if you can't find one of these kits... don't worry.
There is a detail set available on line that will cover not only the VF-1D but all VF-1 fighters including those with the boosters. Of course for you guys that have an open mind and a keen eye… a cockpit photo etch detail set for a 1:72 F-18 combined with a F-16 or F-15 can add some awesome details.

Now using photo etched pieces can be very simple, however they can also require great patience and skill.

Photo etched pieces, like plastic pieces, come on their own frame. These pieces are cut from the frame before being installed. Like plastic kit pieces there is often a small tab left behind on your part from where it was attached. Many will use a small jeweler's file to get rid of the remaining piece. I use something a little different.

As I've said in the past always keep an open mind and think outside the box. Now we all know what a sharpening stone is for... and I'm sure you've come across one at some point. Well those sharpening stones work great for getting rid of those pesky tabs. Simply wet the stone like you would for sharpening a knife and run the piece across the surface.
It doesn't require much pressure just enough to wear down the tab material. Once your tabs are worn flush you're done.

Now for you beginners.... I recommend practicing on the parts frame first before you move on to an actual piece that way you can get the feel of it without risking a good piece.

Most of you will find that your photo etched pieces will end up being painted over, however for those pieces that will remain unpainted here's a way to brighten them up a bit.

While the parts are still on the frame, buff them out with a dremel and a wire brush attachment then a buffer attachment. This will bring out a nice shine which can simulate polished aluminum, chrome, and even polished brass.

Attaching a photo etch piece is pretty easy. You can use Super glue or epoxy. It doesn't take much so be sure you don't over do it.

Again you may want to practice by using a part of the frame and a scrap piece of kit before you move on to actual parts.

Now be aware... some photo etch pieces will require bending at specific angles or shaping... parts like those can require special tools. You may want to have a pair of small needle nose and flat nose pliers and a good metal straight edge in your modeling took kit for these. You can also find a specialty tool specifically for bending photo etch parts at a well stocked hobby shop.

These sets can really enhance your models greatly and can make the difference between your kit looking like the real thing... or just a toy.

As always practice on scrap pieces until you are confident before moving on to your expensive kits and pieces.

These few tips are just to help get you started. I'm sure other modelers out there will also add their tips to the list.

Hope you all have enjoyed this post...

Thank you for your time and happy modeling.

Mark

Yeah actually i never thought of useing the Photo etched stuff previously. It's a really good idea and i look forward to trying it out myself.

As always thanks!

LVS

Well that's what I had intended this thread to do. I wanted to help bring new ideas to you guys as well as tap the vast modeling knowledge of the Robotech/ macross community.

Glad to be of help to you as always.


Ok, today I will try something a little different. This will be a short review on ARII's Macross 1:100 VF-1D fighter kit which is easily found on EBay for any where from $5 to $15 plus shipping.

First off the basics. The kit is a styrene plastic non-transforming kit. Its part count is relatively low making for easy assembly for both kids and adults who are just getting into Macross or Robotech kits.

Don't let the small size fool you. The kit may be basic but it has nice well executed recessed panel lines as well as a compliment of missiles, gun pod and the ability to display it “in flight” or with the landing gear down.

Like the 1:72 kits, the wings on this kit are moveable once assembled and can be displayed swept back or fully extended.

The kit is a variation of ARII’s Standard VF-1 with the tandem cockpit and different “head” making it the “D” version.

Assembly of the kit is fairly easy with the cockpit, main hull, and engine nacelles separate. Once the sub-assemblies are built you can then assemble them to complete the fighter.

Since the engine nacelles (legs) are separate it makes painting the under side of the hull easier. I do recommend painting the details inside the legs before assembling them. I used Testor’s acrylic Gunmetal and painted the inside of the leg along with the small insert piece.

The cockpit is a two piece shell with a basic interior tub and a clear canopy. You will want to paint the cockpit tub and the inside of the cockpit halves before you assemble them. If you really want to take the time you can use small pieces of styrene to add a little more detail to the otherwise bland cockpit.

Now here is where things get tricky.

Since the kit is based off the standard VF the cockpit isn't exactly designed for this particular hull assembly. ARII didn’t go back and do the research on how the D version differs from your standard fighters. If you assemble the kit “box stock” it will be nice and easy for a kid or beginner... But if you want to build a more realistic 1:100 VF-1D then get your razor saw and files ready cause you've got some work to do.

During pre-fitting I realized that the cockpit assembly sat way too far forward when attached. If you look at a picture of the “D” you will notice that the rear angled portion of the canopy sits well into the hull making the rear seat more inboard of the main hull.

I also noticed that the cone shaped section behind the cockpit sat too far forward for the “D” as well. This meant that it too would need to be modified and moved back to allow the cockpit to sit correctly.

I managed to find a far balance while doing the modifications though once you're done the wings no longer move. Though I am sure someone will find a way to modify the kit so that they can.

As I said the fact that there will be 4 main sub assemblies makes painting a little easier. If you don’t want to tackle brush painting then I recommend using an air brush on this one. Sure using can spray paint will work… but you will need to really watch just how much you put on. A can paint job can end up very thick leaving your final model looking toy-like. You want to make sure you have a nice “Scale” paint job.

As is, the kit is nicely detailed with very few fit problems. It is great for older kids who have used glue, beginner adults, or the advanced modeler who is looking for a challenging upgrade.

These kits work great if you want to build a Prometheus deck diorama and if you check out EBay you can find a set of Wave 1:100 Mobile Staff Figures. At just under $13 plus shipping they are a little pricy, but well worth the money if you are really wanting to add life to your diorama. These little guys are in “space suits" that closely resemble the ones seen worn by the carrier crews in space on Robotech. Each set comes with 12 figures with separate arms allowing for multiple variations. AND… With a little work and your imagination you can actually modify 2 of the figures to resemble VF pilots. Though, you will need patience and time to get the figures to sit just right.

I actually really like this kit and I have several of them as well as the standard VFs in my collection. I also have a few extras still in the boxes in case I get a new idea in my head. So pick up a couple of these kits or even just ARII’s standard VF-1 fighter in 1:100 scale and give it a try. ARII also has 1:100 VF-1s in “Guardian” and “Battloid” modes so your dioramas can have some variety.

I hope this little review helps to spark that creative fire inside you guys.

As always practice new techniques on scrap pieces or cheaper kits before trying them on your expensive ones.

And… Happy modeling.

Thank you for your time,

Mark

MARK, OFF TOPIC. SEEN THE NEW 1/100 SCALE FROM TOYNAMI?
PROBABLY A GOOD PRICE AS WELL. WOULD YOU THINK AND HAVE SUGGESTIONS IN HOW TO CUSTOMIZE THEM. THINKING OF DOING A CONTEST FOR 2010 25 ROBOTECH ANNIVERSARY AT COMIC CON AND SHOW IT THERE AT THE BOOTH. THE TOP 3 OF COURSE. TRYING TO WORK OUT A PRIZE OF SOME KIND. TALKING TO HG AND TOYNAMI WITH IDEAS. BUT THAT'S JUST THE EXTRAS THAT I AM WORKING ON. BUT FROM THE FANDOM ME AND SIGH ARE WORKING SPECIAL THINGS AS PRIZES. OF COURSE WE DON'T HAVE FUNDS FOR HUGE PRIZES BUT IDEAS ARE IN THE WORKS.

IF YOU HAVE IDEAS OR TIPS AND HECK, ON HOW TO JUDGE THEM. LET US KNOW. I PICKED THOSE TOYS BECAUSE THEY ARE SMALL AND EASY TO SHIP AND AS WELL TO BUY. AND EASY TO REPLACE IN CASE SOMETHING GOES WRONG. BUT OTHERS TOYS CAN BE BROUGHT IN AS WELL. ESPECIALLY DESTROIDS.

I wanted to add some tips I have found to save some money, but still make some nice models....
Instead of buying new files to get rid of the tabs left behind when taking a piece off the tree, I take my wife's old nail files. (a quick rinse under the tap, and let dry)
I like to use my air brush to paint my models, and do not like getting over spray all over. I made a paint booth from a large cardboard box and lined it with aluminum foil. It works great, and the foil reflects light on my projects.

I also use a special tool, I have special needles for sewing leather ( I also fix western saddles) an have found that they work better for getting paint into really small places better than a toothpick, they are reusable, and also work really well for placing or repositioning decals. They can be found at any leather supply store (like Tandy leather). I have had the same 4 pack of harness needles for over 8 year, and I use them for leather sewing as well as for model work. They can also be heated with a lighter and used to poke "bullet holes" in models to add battle damage.


I have also found that lower quality paints (Testor's cheep stuff) works well with the airbrush, but not when hand painting....then, use quality stuff!

MEMO1DOMINION wrote:

MARK, OFF TOPIC. SEEN THE NEW 1/100 SCALE FROM TOYNAMI?
PROBABLY A GOOD PRICE AS WELL. WOULD YOU THINK AND HAVE SUGGESTIONS IN HOW TO CUSTOMIZE THEM. THINKING OF DOING A CONTEST FOR 2010 25 ROBOTECH ANNIVERSARY AT COMIC CON AND SHOW IT THERE AT THE BOOTH. THE TOP 3 OF COURSE. TRYING TO WORK OUT A PRIZE OF SOME KIND. TALKING TO HG AND TOYNAMI WITH IDEAS. BUT THAT'S JUST THE EXTRAS THAT I AM WORKING ON. BUT FROM THE FANDOM ME AND SIGH ARE WORKING SPECIAL THINGS AS PRIZES. OF COURSE WE DON'T HAVE FUNDS FOR HUGE PRIZES BUT IDEAS ARE IN THE WORKS.

IF YOU HAVE IDEAS OR TIPS AND HECK, ON HOW TO JUDGE THEM. LET US KNOW. I PICKED THOSE TOYS BECAUSE THEY ARE SMALL AND EASY TO SHIP AND AS WELL TO BUY. AND EASY TO REPLACE IN CASE SOMETHING GOES WRONG. BUT OTHERS TOYS CAN BE BROUGHT IN AS WELL. ESPECIALLY DESTROIDS.

This sounds cool! Let me know if you get something together.
I would like to try to do a build if it will be displayed!

MEMO

Actually customizing pre-existing toys is just an addition to modeling. Some of the best customs are made by guys who started out just doing plastic kits.

I've seen the 1/100 Toynami but only in pictures. I have been thinking of getting a couple actually to do some customs, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

As for Ideas on how to customize them, well it really depends on the actual materials that they are made of. Some PVCs and Plastics are easier to work with then others. There could be issues with glues and paints sticking to them properly so I'd actually need to get one first so I can check them out and see what I would recommend.

I have done some custom work in the past, (Transformers: Action Masters, G.I. Joe figures, Etc), that were pretty easy to work with because the plastic was easy to modify. I did a pretty killer "Unicron" custom and "Punisher".

As for the judging... well I suppose you could have 3 categories... Possibly a "Most Original Concept" where you can really see the creative thoughts of fans, "Best Detail" to allow the detailers a chance to shine, and maybe even a "Diorama" category to give those guys a chance to see what situation they can create for a VF-1. You might even have a "Fan's Choice" award where the actual fans vote as opposed to judges. I always liked the idea of a "Fan's choice" because, as a modeler/customizer, it is a cool feeling to know that something I created is well received and enjoyed. I've actually won two "Fan's choice" awards in the past... (One was for a Diorama of an actual downed B-17 as it appears today under water.)

Just be sure that everyone has fun with it.. I mean you don't want a table full of custom Jack Archer or Lizzy VF-1s.. Not that it's a bad thing... but have goofy painted ones is cool too.

Keep me posted It sounds like fun.


SORRAL

Excellent tips.. anytime tips help save a modeler some time or money... they are well worth it.

That's what this thread is all about... coming together as fans of Robotech and its OSM and of modeling and customizing.

Thanks again for adding your tips to this thread.

Mark

Mark Warlock

As for the judging... well I suppose you could have 3 categories... Possibly a "Most Original Concept" where you can really see the creative thoughts of fans, "Best Detail" to allow the detailers a chance to shine, and maybe even a "Diorama" category to give those guys a chance to see what situation they can create for a VF-1. You might even have a "Fan's Choice" award where the actual fans vote as opposed to judges. I always liked the idea of a "Fan's choice" because, as a modeler/customizer, it is a cool feeling to know that something I created is well received and enjoyed. I've actually won two "Fan's choice" awards in the past... (One was for a Diorama of an actual downed B-17 as it appears today under water.)

IF YOU HAVE TIME WOULD LIKE TO SHOOT YOU SOME EMAILS ON MORE IDEAS ABOUT THIS. WE WILL BE JUDGING ONLINE. AS SOON AS WE GET THAT CLEARED OUT OF THE WAY WE CAN GO STRAIGHT AHEAD INTO STARTING A NEW THREAD FOR THE CONTEST.

Just be sure that everyone has fun with it.. I mean you don't want a table full of custom Jack Archer or Lizzy VF-1s.. Not that it's a bad thing... but have goofy painted ones is cool too.

Keep me posted It sounds like fun.

THAT'S THE IDEA AND WE WILL DISPLAY THE WINNERS AT COMIC CON.

This sounds cool! Let me know if you get something together.
I would like to try to do a build if it will be displayed!

IT WILL BE DISPLAYED.

WINNERS COOL? I MEAN, WE WILL STILL PUT UP PICS OF PARTICIPANTS.

MEMO

Absolutely MEMO.... Shoot me an email anytime... I'm always willing to help out. You may have my email address already... if not its in my profile at RT.com