by the fans for the fans

Ok, so I had this idea about a place where you guys and gals who dabble in model making could come and share ideas, tips, and just plain good ol' "How To's".

Now Unlike a similar thread I started over at Robotech.com this thread is open to ALL Robotech, Macross, Mospeada, and Southern Cross Kits. So let yourself go here.

Now my hope is for this to become a great resource for those of us who enjoy modeling and are always on the look out for new ideas and techniques.

I am looking forward to hearing your thoughts and ideas on kit bashing projects, ultra detailing, and even just basic clean building techniques.

Be sure to put in your subject line whether you will be posting a TIP, SUBJECT/ DIORAMA IDEA, or a "HOW TO" to make it easy to search through later.

Oh and one last note.... This is for friendly discussions on MODELING... Let's not get derailed here. Those who come making trouble will be reported for doing so.

Now that being said... let's have some fun!

So pick up your favorite kit and Exacto knife and let's get started!

I USED TO BE AHEAVY MODELER BACK IN THE DAY. STARTED WHEN I WAS IN 4 GRADE ACTUALLY. THE MORE PIECES TEH BETTER AND THE HARDES PART WAS THE GLUING.

SINCE THEN I DONT HAVE THE TIME OR SPACE BUT MAYBE AFTER THE SUMMER MIGHT PICK IT UP AGAIN. WILL HAVE PLENTY OF SPACE AND A WORK BENCH TO ACCOMIDATE SUCH HOBBIE.

MEMO,

Believe me I know how hard it is to find time for modeling. I'm lucky if I can steal 30 minutes or so a couple times a week to do it. But I must say that when I do get the time for it I find it relaxing.. I have always found creative outlets relaxing.

You bring up a very good topic and one worth exploring, so I'll make basic Gluing my first topic of discussion.

Personally, I stay away from those little tubes of model glue... Oh sure they smell great and make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside... But they can be disastrous if not handled very carefully.

As for me I use Testors Liquid Cement as my main glue of choice (though I do use Loctite Super glue and Elmer's glue as well). Testors works well on just about any plastic model kit and can be easily applied with a simple paint brush. I use various sizes of natural hair brushes depending on the size of the pieces being glued and how much glue I want on the area.

For those of you who are not familiar with glues of this type. Liquid cements are just that liquid as opposed to the sticky gel types. They work by flowing between two pieces of plastic by capillary action and begin to dissolve the two pieces enough to "weld" them together.

It is important to use care when using liquid cements as they will damage model surfaces if too much is used or if it is spilled on a model. For this reason I recommend practicing on scrap pieces until you are comfortable being able to control the flow and keeping the lid on your cement until needed. This will help avoid any unpleasant accidents.. Believe me I've repaired my share of liquid cement damage.

Liquid cement can cure very quickly depending on the amount used and the size of the piece. Don't worry to much if you get it on your hands as it evaporates rather quickly and leaves no sticky residue. You still want to wash your hands when your done though and keep a paper towel or cloth handy to wipe your hands so you don't leave unsightly finger prints behind.

To cement two pieces together, choose a brush and dip it into the liquid cement.. Like paint, Be sure not to use too much as you might end up with runs. Brush the liquid onto one surface and then on the other. Put the two pieces together and apply pressure. Once the two surfaces begin to "weld" together you can make adjustments in alignment. *NOTE: Avoid the temptation to add more liquid during this time. If there is a noticable area where the pieces have not started to weld that is fine.. Wait until your first application is cured. If you apply more cement too soon the parts will come back apart as the new cement dissolves the delicate bond you have just made.* Now depending on how much cement is needed your parts can take any where from just a few minutes to a couple hours to fully cure. Remember liquid cement works by dissolving and melting the plastics together and it must fully evaporate from the plastic to cure completely. Be sure you allow the proper time before painting. Parts usually can be handled in a relatively short time so don't think you have to put everything on hold.

Once two pieces have been "welded" together using the liquid cement there is usually a small bead along the glue line (depending on how the pieces fit). This is natural and at times desirable as it helps to hide the seam once it is sanded and primed. Two pieces that have been properly cemented with liquid cement can required little or no filling once the pieces have cured and have been sanded.

A good model is only as good as how its basic structure is put together.. All the neat painting tricks and detailing will do nothing if your kit isn't properly lined up and assembled. Choosing the right glue for you is important to the quality of model you produce.

What you have just read is one persons opinion on the subject. There are those out there that have spent years developing techniques using other glues as their Primary means. The main thing is, don't be scared to try something new.. You just may find that it might be easier then what you were doing before. But no matter which type of glue you decide to use always be sure to work in a well ventilated area. Remember, we don't want to kill any more brain cells then we have too..

I hope this has given everyone some new ideas to work with. And I now open this topic up to anyone who has another method.

Finally i can get some tips on how to make my irreplaceable VF-1s i bought in Japan properly. LOL i've been too nervous to try them yet LOL

HEY MARK! long time no see




CWIS1 RT.com:silly:

LVS

Thanks for the welcome back.. I took a break after a loss..

Well I hope these tips help out. I have my share of those Macross kits.. As a matter of fact I have three currently on my work desk.

I will be posting a cool tip this weekend that I think you might enjoy.

If you're worried about cutting into those 1:72 kits then pick up a couple of the 1:100 kits to practice.

So are you building the Hasegawa kits? Those are great kits with a lot of nice detail.

Well thank you again and look forward to having you enjoy the fun here.

Mark

Actually yeah i have 4 of the 1:72 Hasegawa kits. the Macross VF-1A, VF-1S and VF-1J as well as one VF-0A/S Battroid.

I have only just cracked the one open but i'm taking it slow as i really want to get them right.

How are the parts as far as molding? Do they usually fit right?


Yeah any tips would be great LOL. I have dozens of models of various types that i haven't done yet as time is tight but these 4 are like my ultimate goal LOL!.


Hell yeah it's great to see you on here. Whats the word on ur fan fic? LOL! I don't forget awesome story ideas very quickly.

One thing I do know well is that not all kits are created equal. Poor molding techniques can cause parts to not fit. Poor Quality Over Sight can actually lead to models not having all the parts or even parts from other kits entirely.

Avoid cheap kits you find at places like discount stores or even museums. The kits are normally of dismal quality and the included glues are a waste of effort to use.

There are sites online that you can visit where they rate the various model kits and some of them also sell them online.

Once you have chosen your kits remember to go over the instructions BEFORE you ever snap the first part off the tree. Some instruction manuals i have crossed while included in a well made kit were not clearly written. Sometimes the Do This First AFTER That notices aren't clearly displayed.

Don't ever simply pull the parts off the tree or twist them off as this can at times ruin parts. Use a straight razor to cut them off and then be sure to pre-fit parts before cementing them.

If anyone has any experience with the Testors Model filler (aka model Bondo LOL) lemme know how it should be used as i've never been successful.

I used to paint Real commercial Aircraft so you think i would have more tricks up my sleeve but I only have a few.

A really cool trick i learned that works for model cars if you don't want a chrome wheel is lightly spay paint them with a gloss black paint and let it dry. The "chrome" on the part will show through around the edges of the part although it will still look black. Gives the wheels a nice Black Chrome look to them.

PS: for realistic race tires as long as they are the "Rubber" type not the plastic, scuff the tread down on a medium model sanding pad. This not only eliminates the molding line but creates a scuffed used raceing tire look.

If you want to use a flat black you may want to scuff it first. I usually scuff all surfaces to be painted for better bonding. although you need to use care as some of the eched details don't like the scuff pads. Oh and you may want to buy some of testors model sand paper, 80 grit is a NO NO lol! If i could find a Micro Mesh kit i would prolly use that.

Once a model is primed you actually don't always need to use model paints. I did a model of the USS Nimitz, a USS Arizona , and a USS Bowfin while on cruise. I primed them then used the exact same paint used on the actually ship for the ultimate in color correctedness LOL. (BTW if anyone wonders US Navy ships are Officially Haze Grey)

Details on clear parts as far as paint can be a hassle. If you get any off the area you want it is nearly impossible to clean off completly. It would be terrible to have a perfect cement job and yet not have the nice details. Like on my Nascar or CD-1 models, there are supporst on the clear parts that have to be black. Well originally i tried scotch tape but didn't get the results i wanted. Although i did eventually figure it out it takes a very long time, a very steady hand and a very sharp razor to get it. I would recommend picking up some Pin stripeing tape for this. But once again be careful as if you don't seal it correctly you will have runs under the paint by that darn capillary action again.

After applying decals spray the model down with a clear coat. This will help keep the decals in place and if you do it right on a cheaper kit will help hide the edges of the decal. (there are applicators you can use that will hide them as well but i have no experience with them)

Now from my professional opinion, I would advise using an air brush when ever possible. Unless you are an artist with a brush it is hell to get a nice even coat with out the brush strokes in the finish. Even on our aircraft at my old job until i came on they actually painted US Airways Express planes with PAINT BRUSHES.yes PAINT BRUSHES you get at the dollar store. The finish was terribly grooved from the bristles and to make matters worse there were HAIRS in the paint job.

LVS

Glad to be back. As far as the story goes I left a little message about that for you on the "New Generation" story thread.

Now as for those Hasegawa kits... You've got some pretty good ones.. The only one I don't have that you mentioned is the battloid... I've also got the Elintseeker, the Ostrich kit, the VF-0F and the hard to find "Virgin Road" version of Max's blue fighter.. The one they flew in "Wedding Bells". Just to name a few.

The Hasegawa kits are great kits.. The parts fit well and I usually don't have many fit issues.

You made a great point about test fitting.. That is one of the keys to producing a great replica.

You mentioned the kit instructions.. I found at times that you'll even want to play around with the order a little.. Sometimes the instructions don't show the best way... Or they can even have parts numbers wrong and have you putting parts backwards.

You also mentioned the Testors filler... Well brother have I got a neat tip for you.. Before you use those tube fillers again wait until you read my next tip coming tomorrow evening... Believe me.. You won't wanna miss this.

This is great.. The more ideas brought in the better..

It doesn't matter what kind of modeling you've done in the past..

Whether your past kits have been Automotive, military armor, naval vessels, aircraft, or even miniature trains... Techniques can be adapted and work great for producing realistic detailed Macross and Robotech kits.

Thanks again and look forward to more!

Awesome!

Yeah my sister actually ordered the Battroid(yes that is howit's spelled on the box LOL! but we know its a Battleoid right? I bought the rest in Seasabo Japan at a hobby shop.

I also have the VF-1 Valkyrie Weapon Set. So anyone have tips on scratch building weapons racks and loaders ( i don't really want to arm all my models)